Marine · IP68/IP69K

Marine LED Light Buying Guide

Salt water destroys ordinary lighting. A marine light must survive corrosion, constant moisture, UV exposure and vibration — while meeting navigation regulations. This guide explains how to specify lights that last seasons, not months.

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Quick-Reference Specs

ParameterWhat to look for
CorrosionSalt spray tested ≥480 h (ASTM B117 / GB/T 10485)
Water ratingIP66 deck lights / IP68 underwater & transom lights
Voltage12V / 24V DC boat systems, with reverse-polarity protection
UV resistance1000 h UV aging (GB/T 16422.3) for lens & housing
Housing316 stainless steel or marine-grade aluminum + sealing
Nav lightsMust meet COLREG / USCG / RYA visibility arcs
Legal colorsRed/green sidelights, white stern/masthead, white anchor light

Corrosion testing is the dividing line

Ask every supplier for a salt-spray test duration. Unnamed "marine-rated" lights commonly fail within one season at the coast. 480 hours of neutral salt spray on structural parts — and 720 hours on fasteners — is the benchmark Aurora tests to.

Physically inspect: 316 stainless hardware (not plated steel), gasketed lens joints, and potting around the cable gland.

Water rating by mounting position

Deck & spreader lights: IP66 is sufficient — they take spray, not submersion.

Transom, hull-side and underwater lights: IP68 with pressure-rated depth. Check the cable entry is a gland, not a hole with silicone.

Lights that ride below the waterline face hydrostatic pressure plus growth — choose housings rated for continuous immersion.

Navigation lights: regulation is not optional

Sidelights, stern light, masthead and anchor lights must meet visibility arc and range requirements (COLREGs; USCG for US waters). "Decorative" LEDs do not qualify.

Verify the light is certified for its position (port red / starboard green / stern white) and visible at the required range for your vessel length.

Electrical system realities on boats

Boat voltage is noisy: engine cranking, windlass loads, charger ripple. Choose lights with 9–36V regulation and transient protection.

Bond all light housings to the boat's grounding/anode system where applicable, to prevent galvanic corrosion attacking the housings.

UV and heat: the silent killers

Tropical UV degrades polycarbonate lenses into yellow haze. Look for UV-aged tested lenses (1000 h UVA-340) — Aurora publishes these reports — or glass lenses for fixed installations.

Underwater lights generate heat out of water: never run them during haul-out or dry testing beyond a few seconds.

Buying from a manufacturer: ask every supplier for test reports behind these specs — salt spray hours, IP test evidence, photometric scans and certification numbers you can verify yourself. Aurora publishes its full test evidence in the Test & Research Center.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use automotive LED lights on my boat?

Only if they are IP68 and salt-spray tested. Automotive lights resist rain, not immersion or salt chemistry — expect housing and fastener corrosion within months.

What color underwater light is best?

Blue travels through coastal water best and looks brightest; green also performs well. White looks clean but attracts more growth. Choose trim housings that let you change LEDs if you want flexibility.

Do underwater lights need through-hull fittings?

Premium designs mount flush through the hull with a sealed through-hull — these must be installed professionally. Surface-mount transom lights are the easier retrofit for outboard boats.

How do I stop algae growing on underwater lights?

You cannot fully prevent it; choose housings with replaceable lenses and clean them at each haul-out. Running the lights periodically also slows growth.

Need help specifying your lighting?

Our engineers answer technical questions within 24 hours. OEM/ODM projects start from 100 pcs with IATF 16949 certified processes.